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Terracotta Ponytail Cap with Filet Lattice Crown

An openwork bandana-style cap with a centered ponytail hole, structured front visor, and beaded tassel ties.

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Difficulty
🟡 Intermediate
Time
⏱️ 2-5 hours
Hook
🪡 H-8 / 5 mm
Yardage
🧶 approximately 260 yards (238 meters)
Est. Cost
💰 $10–$15
Finished Size
📏 31 inches (78 cm) around x 10.5 inches (27 cm) tall
⚠️
Always make a gauge swatch before starting!
Gauge: 12.5 dc and 8.5 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in double crochet, blocked
Adjust hook size as needed to match gauge.
📋

At a Glance

The Terracotta Ponytail Cap with Filet Lattice Crown is a free Intermediate-level wearable pattern using Worsted weight yarn with a H-8 / 5 mm hook . Estimated time: 2-5 hours. Finished size: 31 inches (78 cm) around x 10.5 inches (27 cm) tall. You'll need approximately approximately 260 yards (238 meters) of yarn.

36 steps across 5 sections  ·  Free under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 — you can sell finished items

🧶 Pattern Instructions

💡 Tip: Keep your stitch marker in place at center back throughout all rounds to easily locate where to position the visor and tie attachment points.
  1. Rnd 1
    With terracotta rust brown, ch 24, st">sl st to first ch to form a ring, being careful not to twist. Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in each ch around, st">sl st to first st to join. (24 sts)
  2. Rnd 2
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) 12 times, st">sl st to first st to join. (36 sts)
  3. Rnd 3
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) 12 times, st">sl st to first st to join. (48 sts)
  4. Rnd 4
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st) 12 times, st">sl st to first st to join. (60 sts)
  5. Rnd 5
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st) 12 times, st">sl st to first st to join. (72 sts)
  6. Rnd 6
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st) 12 times, st">sl st to first st to join. (84 sts)
  7. Rnd 7
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st) 12 times, st">sl st to first st to join. (96 sts)
  8. Rnd 8
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) around, st">sl st to first st to join. (48 sts and 48 ch-1 sps)
  9. Rnds 9-11
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp) around, st">sl st to first st to join. (48 sts and 48 ch-1 sps)
  10. Rnd 12
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in each st and each ch-1 sp around, st">sl st to first st to join. (96 sts)
  11. Rnds 13-20
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc in each st around, st">sl st to first st to join. (96 sts)
  12. Rnd 21
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (hdc in next 8 sts, hdc2tog) 9 times, hdc in next 6 sts, st">sl st to first st to join. (87 sts)
  13. Rnd 22
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (hdc in next 7 sts, hdc2tog) 9 times, hdc in next 6 sts, st">sl st to first st to join. (78 sts)
  14. Rnd 23
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (hdc in next 7 sts, hdc2tog) 8 times, hdc in next 6 sts, st">sl st to first st to join. (70 sts)
  15. Rnd 24
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), (dc in next 34 sts, 2 dc in next st) 2 times, st">sl st to first st to join. (72 sts)
  16. Rnd 25
    Ch 1 (does not count as a st), (sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk next 2 sts) around, st">sl st to first st to join. (72 sts)
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Work the curved edge decreases evenly on both sides of the visor so it cups nicely over your forehead without puckering.
  1. Row 1
    With terracotta rust brown, ch 29. Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (27 sts)
  2. Row 2
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc in each st across, turn. (27 sts)
  3. Row 3
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc3tog over first 3 sts, hdc in next st and in each st across to last 3 sts, hdc3tog over last 3 sts, turn. (23 sts)
  4. Row 4
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc2tog over first 2 sts, hdc in next st and in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. (21 sts)
  5. Row 5
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc2tog over first 2 sts, hdc in next st and in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. (19 sts)
  6. Row 6
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc2tog over first 2 sts, hdc in next st and in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. (17 sts)
  7. Row 7
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc2tog over first 2 sts, hdc in next st and in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. (15 sts)
  8. Row 8
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc2tog over first 2 sts, hdc in next st and in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. (13 sts)
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Keep your tension consistent along the full length of each tie cord so they hang evenly and hold their beaded fringe without twisting.
  1. Row 1
    With terracotta rust brown, ch 3. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (2 sts)
  2. Rows 2-49
    Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in each st across, turn. (2 sts)
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Stuff each leaf motif gently as you close it so it holds its tapered leaf shape without bunching.
  1. Row 1
    With terracotta rust brown, ch 4. Dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (2 sts)
  2. Row 2
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), 2 dc in first st, dc in next st and in each st across to last 1 st, 2 dc in last st, turn. (4 sts)
  3. Row 3
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), 2 dc in first st, dc in next st and in each st across to last 1 st, 2 dc in last st, turn. (6 sts)
  4. Row 4
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in next st and in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. (4 sts)
  5. Row 5
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in next st and in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. (2 sts)
  6. Row 6
    Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in each st across, turn. (2 sts)
Row counter:
  1. Step 1
    Sew the front visor to the lower front edge of the cap, centering it at the point opposite your center-back stitch marker.
  2. Step 2
    Attach one tie cord to each side point at the back base of the crown, positioning them on either side of the center-back marker.
  3. Step 3
    Thread each tie cord with alternating white beads and leaf pod motifs, starting from the base and working toward the end.
  4. Step 4
    Secure the beads and motifs as you go, and finish the end of each tie with a knot or final bead to prevent unraveling.
Row counter:

✂️ Finishing

Weave in all ends carefully. Block the cap gently to shape, paying special attention to opening the ponytail hole at the center so it sits flat and holds its shape. If desired, lightly starch or stiffen the visor so it holds a subtle cup and provides a defined brim. Once dry, the lattice section will show its open filet pattern to best effect, and the scalloped lower edge will curve elegantly around the head.

🛒 Materials

Worsted weight acrylic or cotton-acrylic blend yarn — terracotta rust brown
About 260 yards (238 meters) of worsted weight acrylic or cotton-acrylic blend yarn in terracotta rust brown
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Crochet hook H-8 / 5 mm
Or the size needed to match the gauge
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Stitch markers
To mark the first stitch of a round or a shaping row
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Tapestry needle
For weaving in ends and seaming
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White beads
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Yarn needle
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Stitch markers
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Fabric stiffener or interfacing for the visor
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📌 Before You Begin

💡

Turning chains and starting chains do not count as stitches unless the row says so. The number in brackets at the end of each row is the stitch count you should have.

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Row 1 is the right side (RS). Left and right edges are as you look at the right side.

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In rows with chain spaces, the count in brackets gives the stitches and the chain spaces separately — the chains of a space are never counted as stitches.

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Change colour on the last pull-through of the row before the one that names the new colour, and carry or cut the old colour as you prefer.

💡

Check your gauge before you start. If you have more stitches than the gauge, try a larger hook; fewer, a smaller hook.

💡

This design uses a centered stitch marker at the back of the crown to track center front and back as you work outward in joined rounds, ensuring the visor and ties land in their proper places.

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The crown is worked in one continuous piece with an open filet mesh section in the middle and a solid half double crochet body below it.

💡

The front visor is sewn to the lower front edge of the cap, and the two tie cords are each sewn to one side point at the back base of the crown, flanking the center-back marker.

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The leaf pod motifs are stuffed lightly as you go and then threaded onto the tie cords with white beads to create fringed tassels.

🎁 Ways to Use This

✦

Wear while gardening, hiking, or playing outdoor sports to keep hair back while staying cool.

✦

Gift to a friend who loves both function and lace details, or to someone with long hair who wants a stylish alternative to a ponytail holder.

✦

Pair with a summer outfit for a bohemian, artisan look with personality.

✦

Wear indoors on a warm day for an airy head covering that lets your scalp breathe.

🧺 Care Instructions

Hand wash in cool water with gentle soap, avoiding excessive agitation. Rinse thoroughly and squeeze out water gently without wringing. Lay flat or reshape on a towel to dry, or hang by the visor if the yarn is sturdy. Once fully dry, you can lightly reshape the crown and visor if needed.

🤖 This pattern was generated by AI and may contain errors. Always test your gauge before starting.

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Questions About This Pattern

Absolutely — just match the weight (Worsted). You'll need about approximately 260 yards (238 meters), so make sure your substitute has enough meterage. Acrylic is budget-friendly and machine-washable; wool gives better stitch definition and drape.
This intermediate pattern assumes you're comfortable with basic stitches. You'll use ch, st, sts, sl st and a few more (see the Abbreviations section above). If increases and decreases are new to you, a quick 10-minute tutorial on YouTube before you start will make the pattern much smoother.
Usually it's the joining or finishing — where individual sections meet and need to align. Read through the entire pattern once before you start so there are no surprises. Use stitch markers generously to track your place, especially in rounds. If a section looks wrong, count your stitches before proceeding — catching an error early saves a lot of frogging later.
For this pattern, gauge is "12.5 dc and 8.5 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in double crochet, blocked". For decorative or non-fitted items it's less critical, but matching gauge ensures you use the right amount of yarn and get the proportions the pattern intends. If your swatch is too small (too many stitches/inch), go up a hook size. Too large — go down.
Hand wash in cool water with gentle soap, avoiding excessive agitation. Rinse thoroughly and squeeze out water gently without wringing. Lay flat or reshape on a towel to dry, or hang by the visor if the yarn is sturdy. Once fully dry, you can lightly reshape the crown and visor if needed. A general rule: when unsure about the yarn, hand wash in cool water with a drop of gentle detergent, squeeze (don't wring), and block flat to dry. This is safe for almost every fiber.
Each section builds on the last, so yes — follow them in order. That said, some finishing sections (like embellishments or optional edging) can be skipped if you prefer a simpler look. Read through all sections before starting so you understand how the pieces fit together and can plan your yarn usage across sections.