Navy Fair Isle Raglan Pullover Sweater

Turning chains and starting chains do not count as stitches unless the row says so. The number in brackets at the end of each row is the stitch count you should have.

Row 1 is the right side (RS). Left and right edges are as you look at the right side.

Fair Isle: carry the colour you are not using loosely along the wrong side, catching it under a stitch on long stretches so the float can't snag.

Each charted row lists its colours in the order you work them — right-side rows read the chart from right to left and wrong-side rows from left to right, and that is already done for you.

Change colour on the last pull-through of the row before the one that names the new colour, and carry or cut the old colour as you prefer.

Check your gauge before you start. If you have more stitches than the gauge, try a larger hook; fewer, a smaller hook.

Heads up: I've turned this into a pullover rather than a cardigan, with the snowflakes worked as Fair Isle bands across the body and sleeves. Since the raglan pieces are worked flat and seamed rather than in the round, the colourwork is worked in rows on each piece.

The ribbing at the hem, cuffs and neckband uses front and back post stitches worked around the stitch post, not into the top loops, to mimic a knit rib — keep your hook oriented consistently so the ribs stay even.

When working the Fair Isle bands, carry the unused colour loosely along the wrong side rather than cutting it each row, and keep tension relaxed so the fabric doesn't pucker.

Join new balls of yarn at the start of a row where possible so colour changes and seams can hide along the raglan or side edges.