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Autumn Raglan Cardigan in Worsted Weight

A structured adult cardigan with classic raglan shaping, worked top-down in worsted-weight acrylic for everyday wear.

Difficulty
🟡 Intermediate
Time
⏱️ 18-24 hours
Hook
🪡 I / 5.5mm
Yardage
🧶 approximately 1800 yards
Finished Size
📏 42 inches bust (adult large)
⚠️
Always make a gauge swatch before starting!
Gauge: 16 sc x 16 rows = 4 inches in single crochet
Adjust hook size as needed to match gauge.
📋

At a Glance

The Autumn Raglan Cardigan in Worsted Weight is a free Intermediate-level wearable pattern using Worsted weight yarn with a I / 5.5mm hook . Estimated time: 18-24 hours. Finished size: 42 inches bust (adult large). You'll need approximately approximately 1800 yards of yarn.

18 steps across 7 sections  ·  Free under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 — you can sell finished items

🛒 Materials

Worsted weight acrylic yarn
1800 yards total in main color, acrylic fiber (machine-washable, affordable, holds shape well for structured garments)
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Crochet hook
Size I / 5.5mm
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Buttons
6 buttons, 1 inch diameter, plastic or wood
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Stitch markers
4-5 markers to track raglan increases
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Tapestry needle
For weaving in ends and sewing buttons
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📖 Abbreviations

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📌 Before You Begin

💡

This pattern is worked top-down from the neckline, with raglan increases creating the sleeve cap shaping. Stitch markers are essential for tracking raglan lines.

💡

The cardigan is worked in continuous rows (turning at the end of each row). Do not join rounds unless specified.

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Finished bust measurement assumes garment will be worn with approximately 2–4 inches of positive ease over body measurements.

🧶 Pattern Instructions

💡 Tip: Count your chain carefully; an off-by-one error here will compound through raglan increases.
  1. Row 1
    Ch 70. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (69 sts)
  2. Row 2
    Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (69 sts)
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Use removable stitch markers so you can move them up as you work. Increases on every row create the fitted raglan cap.
  1. Row 3 (First increase row)
    Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st, 2 sc in next st (right front inc), place marker, sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st (right sleeve inc), place marker, sc in next 35 sts (back), 2 sc in next st (left sleeve inc), place marker, sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st (left front inc), place marker, sc in last st. (73 sts)
  2. Rows 4–35
    Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st, 2 sc in st before marker, st">sl st in marker st, sc in marked st, 2 sc in next st (inc complete at marker), repeat this inc sequence at each of the 4 markers, sc in rem sts. Rep Row 4 pattern 32 times, working raglan increases on every row. After Row 35, you will have 201 sts total (right front: 21 sts, right sleeve: 49 sts, back: 83 sts, left sleeve: 49 sts).
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Use stitch holders or scrap yarn to hold sleeve stitches. This is the transition point from yoke to torso.
  1. Row 36
    Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 21 sts (right front). Ch 1, do not turn. Drop yarn. (21 sts for right front)
  2. Row 36 (Body only)
    Skip 49 sts (right sleeve), rejoin yarn at next st. Sc in next 21 sts, then sc in next 83 sts (back), then sc in next 21 sts (left front). (125 sts for body)
  3. Row 36 (Sleeves)
    Transfer 49-st right sleeve to holder. Transfer 49-st left sleeve to holder. Continue in rows on body sts only.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: The right front stops here to create the button band; the back and left front continue 4 more rows before binding off together, creating a wrap-style opening.
  1. Rows 37–60
    Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (125 sts). Rep 24 rows. Body will measure approximately 12 inches from armpit.
  2. Row 61 (Buttonband row — right front only)
    Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 21 sts (right front), ch 1, cut yarn and fasten off. (21 sts)
  3. Row 61 (Left front and back)
    Return to body. Skip 21 sts (right front). Rejoin yarn. Sc in next 83 sts (back and left front). (104 sts)
Row counter:
  1. Rows 62–65
    Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across back and left front. (104 sts). Rep 4 rows.
  2. Row 66 (Bind off)
    Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across, cut yarn leaving 6-inch tail, pull through last loop to secure. (104 sts)
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Try the cardigan on during sleeve work to ensure sleeve length; crochet stretches vertically, so aim for 1 inch shorter than desired and the cuff will add length.
  1. Right Sleeve, Rows 1–20
    Return 49 sts from right sleeve holder to hook. Ch 1. Sc in each st around in continuous spiral for 20 rounds (approx 5 inches), or until sleeve reaches desired length above wrist. (49 sts per round)
  2. Right Sleeve Cuff
    Switch to hdc. Work 4 rows of hdc in continuous spiral for a 1-inch ribbed cuff effect. (49 sts). Cut yarn and fasten off.
  3. Left Sleeve
    Repeat right sleeve instructions on left sleeve sts.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Measure front length before starting bands to ensure even button placement. Sew buttons from the inside for a cleaner look.
  1. Step 1: Right Front Button Band
    With RS facing, join yarn at bottom right corner of right front. Ch 1. Work 1 row of sc up entire front edge (approximately 40–45 sts depending on row gauge), turn. Work 2nd row sc in each st, cut yarn, fasten off. Sew 6 buttons evenly spaced down right front, approximately 1 inch from edge.
  2. Step 2: Left Front Button Band
    With RS facing, join yarn at bottom left corner of left front. Ch 1. Work 1 row of sc up entire front edge (approximately 40–45 sts), turn. Work 2nd row sc in each st. Do NOT cut yarn yet. This band will serve as the buttonhole band.
  3. Step 3: Buttonholes
    On a 3rd row (optional), space 6 ch-2 gaps (with 1 sc between each gap) to align with buttons on right front. Cut yarn, fasten off.
Row counter:

✂️ Finishing

Weave in all ends using tapestry needle. Block cardigan to finished measurements if desired (lay flat on blocking board, mist lightly with water, smooth to size, let dry 24 hours). Sew 6 buttons securely to right front band using matching yarn and tapestry needle, spacing evenly 3–4 inches apart. Button left front and ensure closure is smooth and even. Trim any loose fibers. Try on to confirm fit and comfort; armholes should sit at natural shoulder line with minimal gap.

🎁 Ways to Use This

Layer over long-sleeve shirts or dresses for a polished, put-together office or casual look year-round

Perfect gift for a friend or family member seeking a classic, comfortable handmade cardigan they can actually wear

Ideal for chilly spring and fall evenings when a full coat feels like overkill

Try on a friend in person during construction to ensure fit—the wrapping front creates an adjustable silhouette that flatters many body types

🧺 Care Instructions

Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent or machine wash on gentle cycle in a mesh bag. Reshape while damp and lay flat to dry on a clean towel; do not hang, as acrylic will stretch. Do not tumble dry. Avoid high heat and bleach.

🤖 This pattern was generated by AI and may contain errors. Always test your gauge before starting.

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Questions About This Pattern

Absolutely — just match the weight (Worsted). You'll need about approximately 1800 yards, so make sure your substitute has enough meterage. Acrylic is budget-friendly and machine-washable; wool gives better stitch definition and drape.
This intermediate pattern assumes you're comfortable with basic stitches. You'll use ch, sc, dc, hdc and a few more (see the Abbreviations section above). If increases and decreases are new to you, a quick 10-minute tutorial on YouTube before you start will make the pattern much smoother.
Usually it's the joining or finishing — where individual sections meet and need to align. Read through the entire pattern once before you start so there are no surprises. Use stitch markers generously to track your place, especially in rounds. If a section looks wrong, count your stitches before proceeding — catching an error early saves a lot of frogging later.
For this pattern, gauge is "16 sc x 16 rows = 4 inches in single crochet". For decorative or non-fitted items it's less critical, but matching gauge ensures you use the right amount of yarn and get the proportions the pattern intends. If your swatch is too small (too many stitches/inch), go up a hook size. Too large — go down.
Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent or machine wash on gentle cycle in a mesh bag. Reshape while damp and lay flat to dry on a clean towel; do not hang, as acrylic will stretch. Do not tumble dry. Avoid high heat and bleach. A general rule: when unsure about the yarn, hand wash in cool water with a drop of gentle detergent, squeeze (don't wring), and block flat to dry. This is safe for almost every fiber.
Each section builds on the last, so yes — follow them in order. That said, some finishing sections (like embellishments or optional edging) can be skipped if you prefer a simpler look. Read through all sections before starting so you understand how the pieces fit together and can plan your yarn usage across sections.

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