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Ember the Twilight Octopus

A seamless amigurumi octopus worked entirely in the round with integrated tentacles

Difficulty
🔴 Advanced
Time
⏱️ 6-8 hours
Hook
🪡 C / 2.75mm
Yardage
🧶 approximately 280 yards
Finished Size
📏 9 inches tall including tentacles, 5 inches wide at head
⚠️
Always make a gauge swatch before starting!
Gauge: 24 sc x 26 rounds = 4 inches in diameter in single crochet worked in the round
Adjust hook size as needed to match gauge.
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At a Glance

The Ember the Twilight Octopus is a free Advanced-level baby pattern using Sport weight yarn with a C / 2.75mm hook . Estimated time: 6-8 hours. Finished size: 9 inches tall including tentacles, 5 inches wide at head. You'll need approximately approximately 280 yards of yarn.

23 steps across 5 sections  ·  Free under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 — you can sell finished items

🛒 Materials

Sport weight acrylic yarn
280 yards in main color, safe for babies
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Polyester fiberfill
Approximately 4 oz, hypoallergenic
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Crochet hook
Size C / 2.75mm
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Stitch markers
2-3 removable markers
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Yarn needle
Blunt tip for weaving ends
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📖 Abbreviations

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📌 Before You Begin

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Work in continuous spiral rounds without joining unless specified. Use a stitch marker to track beginning of rounds.

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Stuff head and body firmly as you go, before openings become too small.

💡

Tentacles are worked directly from the body with no seaming required.

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Eyes are embroidered with yarn to avoid small parts hazard.

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Maintain tight, even tension throughout to prevent stuffing from showing through.

🧶 Pattern Instructions

💡 Tip: Stuff head very firmly for a professional finish. The head should feel solid but not rock-hard.
  1. Round 1
    Start with magic ring, 6 sc into ring. Pull tight. (6 sts)
  2. Round 2
    Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
  3. Round 3
    [Sc 1, inc] 6 times. (18 sts)
  4. Round 4
    [Sc 2, inc] 6 times. (24 sts)
  5. Round 5
    [Sc 3, inc] 6 times. (30 sts)
  6. Round 6
    [Sc 4, inc] 6 times. (36 sts)
  7. Round 7
    [Sc 5, inc] 6 times. (42 sts)
  8. Round 8
    [Sc 6, inc] 6 times. (48 sts)
  9. Rounds 9-18
    Sc in each st around. (48 sts)
  10. Round 19
    [Sc 6, dec] 6 times. (42 sts)
  11. Round 20
    [Sc 5, dec] 6 times. (36 sts)
  12. Round 21
    [Sc 4, dec] 6 times. (30 sts)
  13. Round 22
    [Sc 3, dec] 6 times. Begin stuffing head firmly. (24 sts)
Row counter:
💡 Tip: The body forms a rounded base. Continue stuffing as you work the decreases.
  1. Round 23
    [Sc 3, inc] 6 times. (30 sts)
  2. Rounds 24-28
    Sc in each st around. (30 sts)
  3. Round 29
    [Sc 3, dec] 6 times. (24 sts)
  4. Round 30
    Sc in each st around. Add more stuffing. (24 sts)
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Mark the first stitch to track where each tentacle begins. In this round, you work 3 sc, skip 3 sts under a chain space, and repeat 8 times to evenly distribute around the 24-stitch base.
  1. Setup
    You will now divide stitches to create 8 tentacles. Each tentacle uses 3 sts from Round 30. This round creates 8 groups of 3 sc separated by ch-1 spaces, using all 24 stitches.
  2. Round 31
    Sc in next 3 sts, ch 1, skip next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, ch 1, skip next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, ch 1, skip next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, ch 1, skip next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, ch 1, skip next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, ch 1, skip next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, ch 1, skip next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, ch 1, skip next 3 sts. Do not join. (8 groups of 3 sc separated by ch-1 spaces; 24 sts total: 16 sc worked + 8 ch-1 spaces over 8 skipped sts)
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Stuff each tentacle lightly before closing. Use the eraser end of a pencil to push small amounts of stuffing down the tentacle. All 8 tentacles should have similar length and thickness.
  1. All 8 Tentacles
    Each tentacle is worked from the 3 sc groups created in Round 31. Tentacles alternate between groups worked from single-crocheted stitches and groups worked from skipped stitches under the chain spaces. For each of the 8 tentacles: Join yarn to a 3-st group (either a group of 3 sc or to the 3 skipped sts that form the base under a ch-1 space). Round 1: Sc 3 in the group, sc in ch-1 space. (4 sts) Rounds 2-12: Sc in each st around. (4 sts) Round 13: Dec twice. (2 sts) Round 14: Dec once. Fasten off and weave end inside tentacle. Repeat for all 8 tentacle groups, alternating pattern: Tentacles 1, 3, 5, 7 work from the sc groups; Tentacles 2, 4, 6, 8 work from the skipped st groups under the ch-1 spaces.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Use black or dark brown for eyes and smile for best contrast. Keep embroidery simple and flat to avoid loose pieces.
  1. Eye Placement
    Position eyes between Rounds 13-15 of head, approximately 8-10 sts apart.
  2. Eye Embroidery
    Using doubled yarn in contrasting color, create eyes: Insert needle from back of head, make 3-4 horizontal straight stitches for each eye approximately 3 sts wide. Secure ends inside head.
  3. Smile
    Using same contrasting yarn, embroider a curved smile below eyes using backstitch or stem stitch, approximately 5 rounds below eye level.
Row counter:

✂️ Finishing

Weave in all remaining yarn ends securely, threading them through the interior of the head and body. Trim excess yarn close to the work. Gently shape tentacles, encouraging them to curl naturally. Check all embroidered features to ensure they are securely fastened with no loose ends. Give the octopus a final inspection for any gaps in stitching where stuffing might peek through.

🧺 Care Instructions

Machine wash gentle cycle in cold water inside a mesh laundry bag. Tumble dry low or air dry flat. Do not bleach. Supervise baby during play. Inspect regularly for wear and re-secure any loose embroidery immediately.

🤖 This pattern was generated by AI and may contain errors. Always test your gauge before starting.

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Questions About This Pattern

Absolutely — just match the weight (Sport). You'll need about approximately 280 yards, so make sure your substitute has enough meterage. Fine yarns give delicate detail. Cotton is great for structured pieces; mohair adds a halo effect for a dreamy look.
This pattern uses techniques that require precision and experience. Expect stitches like sc, inc, dec, ch and potentially complex shaping. If you're newer to crochet, try a few intermediate patterns first to build confidence with stitch counts and tension before tackling this one.
Usually it's the joining or finishing — where individual sections meet and need to align. Read through the entire pattern once before you start so there are no surprises. Use stitch markers generously to track your place, especially in rounds. If a section looks wrong, count your stitches before proceeding — catching an error early saves a lot of frogging later.
For this pattern, gauge is "24 sc x 26 rounds = 4 inches in diameter in single crochet worked in the round". For decorative or non-fitted items it's less critical, but matching gauge ensures you use the right amount of yarn and get the proportions the pattern intends. If your swatch is too small (too many stitches/inch), go up a hook size. Too large — go down.
Machine wash gentle cycle in cold water inside a mesh laundry bag. Tumble dry low or air dry flat. Do not bleach. Supervise baby during play. Inspect regularly for wear and re-secure any loose embroidery immediately. A general rule: when unsure about the yarn, hand wash in cool water with a drop of gentle detergent, squeeze (don't wring), and block flat to dry. This is safe for almost every fiber.
Each section builds on the last, so yes — follow them in order. That said, some finishing sections (like embellishments or optional edging) can be skipped if you prefer a simpler look. Read through all sections before starting so you understand how the pieces fit together and can plan your yarn usage across sections.

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