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Double Crochet Raglan Cardigan for Adults

A lightweight, hip-length raglan cardigan worked in double crochet with DK yarn, perfect for layering.

Difficulty
🟡 Intermediate
Time
⏱️ 20-24 hours
Hook
🪡 E / 3.5mm
Yardage
🧶 approximately 1800 yards
Finished Size
📏 42 inches bust, 22 inches length from shoulder to hem
⚠️
Always make a gauge swatch before starting!
Gauge: 20 dc × 10 rows = 4 inches in double crochet
Adjust hook size as needed to match gauge.
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At a Glance

The Double Crochet Raglan Cardigan for Adults is a free Intermediate-level wearable pattern using Dk weight yarn with a E / 3.5mm hook . Estimated time: 20-24 hours. Finished size: 42 inches bust, 22 inches length from shoulder to hem. You'll need approximately approximately 1800 yards of yarn.

17 steps across 8 sections  ·  Free under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 — you can sell finished items

🛒 Materials

DK Weight Acrylic Yarn
1800 yards total (approximately 8 balls of 225 yards each); acrylic yarn chosen for durability, easy care, and drape suitable for a lightweight cardigan
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Crochet Hook
E / 3.5mm, aluminum or bamboo
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Notions
5–6 stitch markers, yarn needle, 5 buttons (½ inch diameter), sewing needle and matching thread
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📖 Abbreviations

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📌 Before You Begin

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Raglan shaping is worked by increasing 4 stitches every other row (2 inc on each side of body, 2 inc on each sleeve). Markers aid tracking of raglan lines.

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Cardigan is worked flat from the bottom up, with sleeves and body worked separately, then joined.

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For a 5'3" wearer, 22 inches length hits at the hip as intended; adjust final length before joining yoke if needed.

🧶 Pattern Instructions

💡 Tip: Measure width frequently; if your gauge differs slightly, adjust chain count so finished body is 42 inches wide.
  1. Row 1
    Ch 210 with E hook. Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (208 sts).
  2. Rows 2–40
    Ch 3, dc in each st across. Repeat until body measures 16 inches from foundation. Fasten off. Body should measure approximately 42 inches wide (208 sts). Place markers at st 52, st 104, and st 156 to indicate raglan shaping points (left front, left sleeve, back, right sleeve, right front sections).
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Left sleeve will be sewn to left side of body between markers at sts 52–104. Keep final row loop live if possible for easier joining.
  1. Row 1
    Ch 76. Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (74 sts).
  2. Rows 2–28
    Ch 3, dc in each st across. Work 28 rows total (sleeve measures approximately 11 inches). Mark first and last st of final row as raglan increase points.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Right sleeve mirrors left sleeve. Both sleeves should measure the same when laid flat.
  1. Row 1
    Ch 76. Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (74 sts).
  2. Rows 2–28
    Ch 3, dc in each st across. Work 28 rows total. Mark first and last st as raglan points.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Work decreases by working 2 sts together (dc2tog) at marked raglan positions. Place stitch markers to track raglan lines through shaping.
  1. Step 1: Join pieces
    Using yarn needle and mattress stitch, sew left sleeve cap between body markers (sts 52–104, approximately 11 inches). Sew right sleeve between markers (sts 104–156). Sew underarm seams of sleeves closed.
  2. Step 2: Raglan decrease rows
    Working in continuous rows from body, join yarn at left front raglan marker (st 52). Ch 3, work dc across, decreasing 1 st before and after each sleeve marker. Work raglan decreases every 2 rows (work 1 row even, then 1 row with decreases) until armhole depth reaches 8 inches. Total raglan decrease rows: approximately 8 rows of decreases spaced every 2 rows. Decrease 4 sts per decrease row (1 dec at each raglan line). After final shaping row, approximately 160 sts remain.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Neckline shaping creates a gentle scoop; it is shallow intentionally so the cardigan sits gracefully on the shoulders.
  1. Rows 1–12 (Yoke)
    Ch 3, dc in each st across. Work 12 rows in dc (approximately 5 inches) until yoke reaches shoulder. Neck opening should measure approximately 24 inches across when laid flat.
  2. Neckline Shaping
    On row 13, work dc across first 60 sts (left front). Ch 1, turn. Dec 1 st at neck edge every row for 4 rows (56 sts remain at left front). Fasten off. Repeat for right front: skip center 40 sts, join yarn, work 60 sts, dec 1 st at neck edge every row for 4 rows.
Row counter:
  1. Row 1
    With E hook, pick up and dc in 44 sts along left front edge (from bottom hem to neckline). Ch 3, turn.
  2. Row 2
    Dc in each st across (44 sts). Fasten off. This creates a 1-inch-wide button band.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Position buttonholes 8 rows apart for even spacing down the cardigan front.
  1. Row 1
    Pick up and dc in 44 sts along right front edge. Ch 3, turn.
  2. Row 2 (Buttonhole row)
    Dc 4, ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc 6, ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc 6, ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc 6, ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc 6, ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc 4. (44 sts, 5 buttonholes evenly spaced). Ch 3, turn.
  3. Row 3
    Dc in each st and ch-2 sp across (44 sts). Fasten off.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Sc edging prevents sleeve cuffs from rolling and adds a finished edge.
  1. Round 1
    With E hook, pick up and sc in each st around sleeve cuff (approximately 74 sts). Join with st">sl st.
  2. Round 2
    Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with st">sl st. Fasten off.
Row counter:

✂️ Finishing

Weave in all ends with yarn needle. Block cardigan to finished measurements: lay flat, pin to dimensions, and allow to dry. Sew buttons to left front band, spacing them to align with buttonholes. Verify buttonholes are open and trim any loose threads. Try on cardigan to confirm fit and length; cardigan should fall to hip, hitting mid-thigh on a 5'3" wearer.

🎁 Ways to Use This

Layer over summer dresses or tank tops for cool evenings or air-conditioned spaces.

Wear open over a tee for a casual, approachable layering piece that works in spring and fall.

Perfect gift for a coworker, friend, or family member who appreciates handmade wearables.

Pairs beautifully with linen pants, denim, or casual skirts for an effortlessly put-together look.

🧺 Care Instructions

Hand wash in lukewarm water with gentle detergent. Rinse thoroughly. Gently squeeze out excess water; do not wring. Lay flat to dry on a clean towel. Reshape if needed while damp. Acrylic yarn is durable and may also be machine washed on gentle cycle if desired.

🤖 This pattern was generated by AI and may contain errors. Always test your gauge before starting.

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Questions About This Pattern

Absolutely — just match the weight (Dk). You'll need about approximately 1800 yards, so make sure your substitute has enough meterage. Acrylic is budget-friendly and machine-washable; wool gives better stitch definition and drape.
This intermediate pattern assumes you're comfortable with basic stitches. You'll use ch, dc, sl st, inc and a few more (see the Abbreviations section above). If increases and decreases are new to you, a quick 10-minute tutorial on YouTube before you start will make the pattern much smoother.
Usually it's the joining or finishing — where individual sections meet and need to align. Read through the entire pattern once before you start so there are no surprises. Use stitch markers generously to track your place, especially in rounds. If a section looks wrong, count your stitches before proceeding — catching an error early saves a lot of frogging later.
For this pattern, gauge is "20 dc × 10 rows = 4 inches in double crochet". For decorative or non-fitted items it's less critical, but matching gauge ensures you use the right amount of yarn and get the proportions the pattern intends. If your swatch is too small (too many stitches/inch), go up a hook size. Too large — go down.
Hand wash in lukewarm water with gentle detergent. Rinse thoroughly. Gently squeeze out excess water; do not wring. Lay flat to dry on a clean towel. Reshape if needed while damp. Acrylic yarn is durable and may also be machine washed on gentle cycle if desired. A general rule: when unsure about the yarn, hand wash in cool water with a drop of gentle detergent, squeeze (don't wring), and block flat to dry. This is safe for almost every fiber.
Each section builds on the last, so yes — follow them in order. That said, some finishing sections (like embellishments or optional edging) can be skipped if you prefer a simpler look. Read through all sections before starting so you understand how the pieces fit together and can plan your yarn usage across sections.

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