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DK Raglan Hip-Length Double Crochet Cardigan

A lightweight, structured cardigan with classic raglan sleeves in soft DK yarn, designed to hit at the hip with timeless double crochet texture.

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Difficulty
🟡 Intermediate
Time
⏱️ 35-45 hours
Hook
🪡 4.5mm / H
Yardage
🧶 approximately 1800 yards
Finished Size
📏 40 inches bust, 22 inches length
⚠️
Always make a gauge swatch before starting!
Gauge: 18 dc x 12 rows = 4 inches in double crochet
Adjust hook size as needed to match gauge.
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At a Glance

The DK Raglan Hip-Length Double Crochet Cardigan is a free Intermediate-level wearable pattern using Dk weight yarn with a 4.5mm / H hook . Estimated time: 35-45 hours. Finished size: 40 inches bust, 22 inches length. You'll need approximately approximately 1800 yards of yarn.

28 steps across 8 sections  ·  Free under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 — you can sell finished items

🛒 Materials

DK weight acrylic yarn
1800 yards total in main color, light-weight acrylic blend for drape and easy care
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Crochet hook
4.5mm / H size, aluminum or bamboo for comfort during extended sessions
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Notions
5 stitch markers, yarn needle for weaving in ends, 6 buttons (½ inch diameter)
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📖 Abbreviations

View full dictionary →
ch — chain → dc — double crochet → sc — single crochet → sl st — slip stitch → inc — increase (2 dc in same stitch) → st(s) — stitch(es) → sp(s) — space(s) → rnd — round → tog — together →

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📌 Before You Begin

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This cardigan is worked flat in pieces: fronts, back, and sleeves are crocheted separately, then seamed together.

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Raglan shaping increases are worked every other row to create the angled sleeve cap.

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Use stitch markers to track raglan increase lines for accuracy.

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Pattern is sized for 40-inch bust with approximately 2 inches positive ease.

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All pieces complete raglan shaping in 19 rows (Rows 35-53), ending at the same height before final rows.

🧶 Pattern Instructions

💡 Tip: Mark raglan increase stitches with stitch markers to keep track of shaping progression.
  1. Row 1
    Ch 91. Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (88 dc).
  2. Rows 2-33
    Ch 3, dc in each st across (88 dc). Repeat for 32 rows total. Back panel measures approximately 11 inches from cast-on edge.
  3. Row 34 (Set-up raglan)
    Ch 3, dc in first st, 2 dc in next st (raglan inc at edge), dc in each st across to last 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in last st (90 dc).
  4. Rows 35-53 (Raglan increases)
    Ch 3, skip first st, dc in each st to last st, dc in last st. Then on next row: Ch 3, dc in first st, inc in next st, dc across to last 2 sts, inc in next st, dc in last st. Alternate plain rows and increase rows until 110 dc, working raglan increases at both edges every other row for 10 total increases (19 rows).
Row counter:
💡 Tip: The raglan edge is the side closer to the neck; the front edge (opposite side) remains straight for button bands.
  1. Row 1
    Ch 46. Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (43 dc).
  2. Rows 2-33
    Ch 3, dc in each st across (43 dc). Repeat for 32 rows to match back length.
  3. Row 34 (Set-up raglan)
    Ch 3, dc in first st, 2 dc in next st (raglan inc), dc across to end (44 dc).
  4. Rows 35-53 (Raglan increases)
    Increase at raglan edge (first 2 sts after ch-3) every other row for 10 increases total, matching back panel shaping. Work plain rows in between. End with 64 dc.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Mirror the increases from the left front so raglan shaping is symmetrical.
  1. Row 1
    Ch 46. Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (43 dc).
  2. Rows 2-33
    Ch 3, dc in each st across (43 dc). Repeat for 32 rows to match back and left front.
  3. Row 34 (Set-up raglan)
    Ch 3, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in last st (44 dc).
  4. Rows 35-53 (Raglan increases)
    Increase at raglan edge (last 2 sts before end) every other row for 10 increases total. End with 64 dc.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Keep sleeve cap increases perfectly aligned with the front and back raglan lines for a professional finish. Work increases on the same row numbers as front and back raglan increases.
  1. Row 1
    Ch 44. Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (41 dc).
  2. Rows 2-7
    Ch 3, dc in each st across (41 dc). Repeat for 6 rows.
  3. Row 8 (Begin cap shaping)
    Ch 3, dc in first st, 2 dc in next st, dc across to last 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in last st (43 dc).
  4. Rows 9-27 (Cap increases)
    Increase 1 dc at each end every other row. Work increases on Rows 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27 (10 increases total). Work plain rows on Rows 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26. End with 63 dc after all increases.
  5. Rows 28-34
    Ch 3, dc in each st across (63 dc). Repeat for 7 rows to complete sleeve cap height. Fasten off.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Pin seams carefully before sewing to ensure sleeve caps sit smoothly without bunching. All pieces should reach approximately the same height (Row 53) before final rows.
  1. Step 1
    Lay all pieces on a flat surface. Verify that all pieces (back, left front, right front, and both sleeves) have completed Rows 1-34 and all raglan shaping through Row 53 before assembly. Pin raglan seams: match the angled raglan edges of sleeves to the angled raglan edges of fronts and back, aligning row numbers and increase lines carefully.
  2. Step 2
    Using yarn needle and mattress stitch, sew raglan seams together, working from the sleeve cap down toward the underarm. Ensure increases line up evenly. Sew underarm seams last, closing the sleeve caps completely.
  3. Step 3
    Sew side seams from underarm to hem, joining front panels to back panel.
  4. Step 4
    Weave in all yarn ends neatly on the wrong side.
Row counter:
  1. Row 1
    With right side facing, join yarn at bottom right of left front edge. Ch 1, sc evenly up the front edge (approximately 33 sc).
  2. Row 2
    Ch 1, sc in each st across (33 sc). Fasten off.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Space buttonholes evenly: approximately one every 5-6 rows for a balanced appearance. Row 2 creates openings; Row 3 reinforces them for durability.
  1. Row 1
    With right side facing, join yarn at bottom left of right front edge. Ch 1, sc evenly up the front edge (approximately 33 sc).
  2. Row 2 (Buttonholes)
    Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, *ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next 5 sts; repeat from * until 6 buttonholes total are made, ending with sc in last 2 sts (33 sts and 6 ch-2 spaces).
  3. Row 3 (Reinforce buttonholes)
    Ch 1, sc in each st and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp across (33 sc). Fasten off.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Count stitches carefully so the neckline edge doesn't curl or pull. If the neckline is too tight, increase stitches evenly; if too loose, decrease stitches evenly. Pin and try on after Round 1 if possible to verify fit before completing Round 2.
  1. Round 1
    With right side facing, join yarn at base of right button band. Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire neckline opening. To determine stitch count: count approximately 33 sc up the right button band, plus approximately 28-30 sc across the back neckline (determined by back panel width and shaping), plus 33 sc down the left button band, for a total of approximately 94-96 sc. Adjust as needed if the neckline opening is larger or smaller: work until the edging lies flat without curling or pulling. Sl st to first sc to join.
  2. Round 2
    Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
Row counter:

✂️ Finishing

Block all pieces to measurements before assembly if desired. Pin raglan seams carefully and sew with mattress stitch for an invisible seam, ensuring increase lines align perfectly. Sew underarm and side seams. Weave in all ends. Attach 6 buttons to the left button band, spacing them evenly to align with the buttonholes on the right front. Try on and adjust button placement if necessary for comfort and symmetry.

🎁 Ways to Use This

✦

A versatile layering piece for spring and fall office wear, pairing easily over blouses or dresses.

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Perfect for someone 5'3" who needs a cardigan that hits right at the hip without excess length.

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An ideal handmade gift for a friend or family member who loves lightweight, breathable knitwear.

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Great starter raglan project for intermediate crocheters looking to practice shaping and seaming techniques.

🧺 Care Instructions

Machine wash in cool water on a gentle cycle with similar colors. Lay flat to dry. Do not bleach. Reshape while damp if needed. Iron on low heat with steam if desired. DK acrylic yarn is durable and easy-care, making this cardigan suitable for regular wear and frequent washing.

🤖 This pattern was generated by AI and may contain errors. Always test your gauge before starting.

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Questions About This Pattern

Absolutely — just match the weight (Dk). You'll need about approximately 1800 yards, so make sure your substitute has enough meterage. Acrylic is budget-friendly and machine-washable; wool gives better stitch definition and drape.
This intermediate pattern assumes you're comfortable with basic stitches. You'll use ch, dc, sc, sl st and a few more (see the Abbreviations section above). If increases and decreases are new to you, a quick 10-minute tutorial on YouTube before you start will make the pattern much smoother.
Usually it's the joining or finishing — where individual sections meet and need to align. Read through the entire pattern once before you start so there are no surprises. Use stitch markers generously to track your place, especially in rounds. If a section looks wrong, count your stitches before proceeding — catching an error early saves a lot of frogging later.
For this pattern, gauge is "18 dc x 12 rows = 4 inches in double crochet". For decorative or non-fitted items it's less critical, but matching gauge ensures you use the right amount of yarn and get the proportions the pattern intends. If your swatch is too small (too many stitches/inch), go up a hook size. Too large — go down.
Machine wash in cool water on a gentle cycle with similar colors. Lay flat to dry. Do not bleach. Reshape while damp if needed. Iron on low heat with steam if desired. DK acrylic yarn is durable and easy-care, making this cardigan suitable for regular wear and frequent washing. A general rule: when unsure about the yarn, hand wash in cool water with a drop of gentle detergent, squeeze (don't wring), and block flat to dry. This is safe for almost every fiber.
Each section builds on the last, so yes — follow them in order. That said, some finishing sections (like embellishments or optional edging) can be skipped if you prefer a simpler look. Read through all sections before starting so you understand how the pieces fit together and can plan your yarn usage across sections.
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