Boho Triangle Shawlette Crochet Pattern Delicate Lace

A graceful boho triangle shawlette crochet pattern lace delicate openwork design with ethereal drape and picot edge detail

🤍
Difficulty
🟡 Intermediate
Time
⏱️ 10-14 hours
Hook
🪡 G / 4.0mm
Yardage
🧶 approximately 550 yards
Finished Size
📏 60 inches wingspan x 24 inches deep at center
⚠️
Always make a gauge swatch before starting!
Gauge: 18 dc x 9 rows = 4 inches in double crochet
Adjust hook size as needed to match gauge.
📋

At a Glance

The Boho Triangle Shawlette Crochet Pattern Delicate Lace is a free Intermediate-level wearable pattern with a G / 4.0mm hook . Estimated time: 10-14 hours. Finished size: 60 inches wingspan x 24 inches deep at center. You'll need approximately approximately 550 yards of yarn.

13 steps across 4 sections  ·  Free under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 — you can sell finished items

🛒 Materials

DK weight yarn
550 yards, soft fiber with good drape such as merino, bamboo blend, or acrylic blend
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Crochet hook
Size G / 4.0mm
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Yarn needle
For weaving in ends
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Stitch markers
Optional, for marking center stitch
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📖 Abbreviations

ch — chain
dc — double crochet
sc — single crochet
sl st — slip stitch
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
sk — skip
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side

📌 Before You Begin

💡

Shawl is worked from the top center down in rows with increases on each edge and center spine.

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Each row begins with ch 3 which counts as first dc throughout.

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The center stitch creates the spine; increases occur before and after this center stitch.

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Maintain loose, even tension for proper drape and to prevent fabric from puckering.

💡

RS rows are odd-numbered; WS rows are even-numbered.

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Ch-2 spaces form the lace openwork pattern.

🧶 Pattern Instructions

💡 Tip: Mark the center 2 stitches on Row 3 to help track the spine throughout.
  1. Row 1
    Ch 4. Dc in 4th ch from hook (first 3 ch count as dc). (2 dc)
  2. Row 2
    Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st, dc in top of turning ch. (4 dc)
  3. Row 3
    Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in top of turning ch. (6 dc)
Row counter:
💡 Tip: The pattern establishes alternating solid and lace rows. Row 10 creates the lace openwork; count carefully to maintain pattern alignment.
  1. Row 4
    Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st, dc in next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc in next st, 2 dc in top of turning ch. (6 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
  2. Row 5
    Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in top of turning ch. (10 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
  3. Row 6
    Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in top of turning ch. (12 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
  4. Row 7
    Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st, dc in next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc in next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in center ch-2 sp, dc in next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc in next st, 2 dc in top of turning ch. (10 dc, 3 ch-2 sps)
  5. Row 8
    Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in center ch-2 sp, dc in next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in top of turning ch. (16 dc, 3 ch-2 sps)
  6. Row 9
    Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st, *dc in each st to ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each st to last st, 2 dc in top of turning ch. (20 dc, 3 ch-2 sps)
  7. Row 10
    Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st, dc in next st, *[ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc in next st] to 1 st before ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, **dc in next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts; rep from ** to last 2 sts, dc in next st, 2 dc in top of turning ch.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Maintain consistent tension and always increase at beginning and end of rows plus at the 3 spine ch-2 spaces.
  1. Rows 11-45
    Continue alternating pattern rows: Odd rows (like Row 9): Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st, *dc in each st and work (dc, ch 2, dc) in each ch-2 sp to center ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in center ch-2 sp; rep from * once more, dc in each st to last st with (dc, ch 2, dc) in each ch-2 sp, 2 dc in top of turning ch. Even rows (like Row 10): Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st, work in dc and ch-2 lace pattern maintaining 3 ch-2 spine sections, 2 dc in top of turning ch. Continue until piece measures approximately 23 inches from top to bottom point.
Row counter:
💡 Tip: Keep picot border relaxed to maintain the drape of the shawl. The picots should sit softly, not pull tight.
  1. Round 1
    Do not turn after last row. Ch 1, work sc evenly down left edge of shawl working approximately 2 sc for every dc row and 1 sc per ch-2 sp row, placing 3 sc in bottom point. Work sc evenly up right edge in same manner. At top edge, sc in each st across. Sl st to first sc to join.
  2. Round 2
    Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook (picot made), sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around entire shawl, adjusting at bottom point to work (sc, picot, sc, picot, sc) in center st. Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off.
Row counter:

✂️ Finishing

Weave in all ends securely using yarn needle. Block shawl to finished measurements by pinning out the wingspan to 60 inches and center depth to 24 inches. Pin out each picot point along the border for definition. Spray with water or use steam blocking method appropriate for your yarn fiber. Allow to dry completely before unpinning, at least 4-6 hours.

🧺 Care Instructions

Hand wash gently in cool water with mild soap. Do not wring or twist. Roll in towel to remove excess water, then lay flat to dry, reshaping to measurements. For natural fibers, reblock after washing to maintain shape. Steam lightly if needed to refresh drape between wearings.

🤖 This pattern was generated by AI and may contain errors. Always test your gauge before starting.

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Questions About This Pattern

Absolutely — just match the weight (Dk). You'll need about approximately 550 yards, so make sure your substitute has enough meterage. Acrylic is budget-friendly and machine-washable; wool gives better stitch definition and drape.
This intermediate pattern assumes you're comfortable with basic stitches. You'll use ch, dc, sc, sl st and a few more (see the Abbreviations section above). If increases and decreases are new to you, a quick 10-minute tutorial on YouTube before you start will make the pattern much smoother.
Usually it's the joining or finishing — where individual sections meet and need to align. Read through the entire pattern once before you start so there are no surprises. Use stitch markers generously to track your place, especially in rounds. If a section looks wrong, count your stitches before proceeding — catching an error early saves a lot of frogging later.
For this pattern, gauge is "18 dc x 9 rows = 4 inches in double crochet". For decorative or non-fitted items it's less critical, but matching gauge ensures you use the right amount of yarn and get the proportions the pattern intends. If your swatch is too small (too many stitches/inch), go up a hook size. Too large — go down.
Hand wash gently in cool water with mild soap. Do not wring or twist. Roll in towel to remove excess water, then lay flat to dry, reshaping to measurements. For natural fibers, reblock after washing to maintain shape. Steam lightly if needed to refresh drape between wearings. A general rule: when unsure about the yarn, hand wash in cool water with a drop of gentle detergent, squeeze (don't wring), and block flat to dry. This is safe for almost every fiber.
Each section builds on the last, so yes — follow them in order. That said, some finishing sections (like embellishments or optional edging) can be skipped if you prefer a simpler look. Read through all sections before starting so you understand how the pieces fit together and can plan your yarn usage across sections.